Award-winning chef-patron Pascal Canevet shares a sweet game recipe
Seasonal eating and making the most of this month’s produce is a treat when you live in our bountiful county. My recipe is a simple seasonal dish combining the gentle freshness of celeriac with roasted golden chestnuts and partridge. It simply oozes autumnal flavour yet is a lovely light dish, proving we don’t have to turn to robust stews this time of year.
Across Suffolk partridges and pheasants are everywhere; with the game season well and truly underway. A small bird, that so often is overlooked, partridge offers a sweet delicate flavour and takes just minutes to prepare. Packed full of protein with very little fat it offers a nutritional alternative to chicken. I use local Breckland partridge available from good butchers across the county. Do bear in mind if buying a whole bird, it may contain remnants of shot.
“Delicious winter flavours of golden roasted chestnuts and a velvet celeriac sauce”
Celeriac or celery root may not look like the most exciting vegetable, but I assure you it offers an exquisite lightness to the dish when pureed and paired with the naturally sweet flavour of partridge. The sauce is so creamy it’s like velvet. Look for a firm bulbous root, the fresher it is the heavier it will feel. Celeriac has a long shelf life, so use any spare for a good stock, as its ideal in homemade vegetable soup.
I always feature partridge on our seasonal menu and I must admit it’s one of the most popular dishes over the festive season.
Top Tip: Partridge breast should be served slightly underdone to retain moistness
And to drink:
Maison Bleue sommelier Romain Ducolombier recommends: Pair with Côte de Beaune Villages, Olivier Leflaive, Côtes de Beaune 2014. An aromatic, elegant Pinot Noir layered with spiced black cherries from Burgundy. – find it on our wine list.
• 8 Partridge breasts (skin on)
• 12 Chestnuts
• 100 gr of celeriac trimmed and peeled
• 150 gr chicken stock
• 50ml whipping cream
• 100 gr salted butter
• Salt and black pepper to taste
Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and add the chestnuts for ten minutes. Remove from heat. While still warm peel off the outer brown shell and papery thin skin underneath with a small sharp knife. Store in a warm place until needed.
Cut the celeriac into small cubes. Bring the chicken stock to a boil then add the celeriac and simmer for about 15 minutes until tender. Allow to cool. Add stock and celeriac into a food processor, add the cream and purée until smooth. Pass the sauce through a sieve and season. Set aside.
Add 70 gr of butter to a heavy based frying pan and allow to get hot. Season the partridge breasts both sides and place skin side down in pan. Pan-fry for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until just cooked through, basting with butter as you go. Remove from the heat and leave to rest in a warm place for about five minutes.
Meanwhile, add 30gr of butter to a new pan. Once foaming, add the chestnuts and sauté until
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